Passes - Landslide Gully
Grading | 6 | Very Hard |
Track Type | 5 | Offtrack. |
Track Condition | 5 | Overgrown or badly eroded. |
Exposure | 4 | Belay advised |
Navigation | 4 | Hard. |
Length | 440m | |
Vertical | 210m |
The Landslide Gully, sometimes refered to as Dog Face Gully, is one of the most difficult of all the passes into the Jamison valley. It was possibly used by miners in the 19th century to enter the valley, although why they would choose this rather than the Golden Stairs or down the "Scenic Railway" gully beside Orphan Rock no one knows. It was redicscovered in 1975 by Fr Frank Bendeich and Tony Boyd of the Catholic Bushwalkers Club. I am aware of very few ascents of the gully. All of them involving an 8m climb at the top. On 19th Oct 2015, I with the help of 4 others pioneered a route up which bypassed the climb and ended at Hilda's Lookout. (I have dared to call it Powell's Ascent)
Access:
- Federal Pass
- Cliff Drive, Katoomba (Hilda's Lookout)
- Glenraphael Drive, Katoomba
Map: Katoomba
Track Notes:
Access to the gully is from Federal Pass. Coming from the Scenic Railway, cross all of the Landslide. As you cross the Landslide you will have clear views of the gully. Head up the gully just before you cross the watercourse that comes from it. This is a steep scramble, stay away from the creek bed as it is very slippery. The gully gradually closes in and you come to a large boulder which spans the gully. Climb the right side of this boulder to its top. From there the first person needs to free climb up the right side in a series of 3 ledges. To get up the first there is a very good hand hold in the crack near the top. The second and third ledge are gained by climbing the left corner of this first ledge. It is advisable to then set up a rope or tape to aid less able climbers. An alternative is scramble over to the left and back down to the ledge above the left side of the boulder. We found this to be very slippery, and you need a knotted rope. From the top of the third ledge sidle left and over the creek, scrambling up to a 2m rock face. Climb up to the ledge above and head right across the creek. Once over the creek head up by climbing up the crack, do not continue on the ledge. You may need to set up a tape for those less able.
You are now in the 1st chamber. From here scramble up to the cliff line and turn right. Follow this onto the ledge which heads around a point to the 2nd chamber of the gully. There is some exposure but great views from this ledge. Either scramble up the gully again or the ridge before it to the cliff line. To your left is what I've labelled "tombstone rock" (it looks like this from further up). I think that this is where the "technical corner", requiring an 8m climb that others descibe in their notes, is. Instead turn right along the bottom of the cliff line. You will see a ledge starts above and in front of you. You could climb up to it but it is easier to walk another 20m around it and climb up where there is a conveniently sloped way up with lots of hand and foot holds. Climb to the top of the ledge. Again turn right on the ledge and follow it round an exposed section then down across a narrow, bushy ledge to a gully. Head left and scramble up the gully. Slowly move up to the right onto the ridge where there is a great lookout point. From here head straight up to the next cliff line, sidle left to the next gully and head up to Cliff Drive. You come out at Hilda's Lookout.
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